Spain travel information
The Iberian Peninsula is like a hypothetical aisle marked Experience in a choice-laden supermarket full of good things that come in a variety of enticing packages. So just as sherry comes in fino, amontillado, manzanilla, and dulce, flamenco can be either raucous sidestreet strumming, a tourist sideshow in Granada's Cuevas de Sacromonte (Sacromonte Caves), or a whirl perfect spectacle on a limelit Madrid stage. Gazpacho can be eaten with a spoon or drunk with a straw, and there are endless varieties of seafood, from the hearty cod stews of the Basque Country and octopus of Galicia to the elaborate mussel and shrimp paella of Valencia. Nor do all Spaniards speak only Castilian.
There is a language similar to Portuguese spoken in the region of Galicia, a different form of Catalan in each of the regions of Catalonia including on each Balearic Island and the exotic (and impenetrable) tongue of the Basques, called euskera, that apparently isn't related to anything else on this planet.
The San Fermin Festival Pamplona
Iberia's range of flavors comes from its capacity for absorption. One of Spain's most notable painters, El Greco, was a Greek (as is the current queen, Sofia); the Bourbon dynasty was French; and an American popularized Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin (in recognition of which the city named a square for himPlaza Hemingway). The Americas contributed tomatoes, potatoes, chocolate, coffee, and the gold that decorated Toledan swords and made Madrid one of the most powerful cities in Europe. Africa gave Spain an architectural heritage and the microtonal wail of Spanish flamenco.
And Mother Nature bestowed on many parts of the country an often crushing heat that spawned such relaxing institutions as the afternoon siesta, the eveningpaseo, the strategically placed cafe, and the evening gathering around the motor scooter in a small town square.
Bullfighting Spain
Still, there are several experiences that capture the special spirit of this singular country, and provide a visitor with an insight into its irresistible personality. Bullfight in Pamplona, Navarre The corrida de toros, a Sunday ritual heralded by fanfare and pop, is an assault on all the senses: the ocher turf glaring in the late afternoon sun; the band's tinny blare; the gaudy, spangled costumes of the procession; the bandilleros' ballet; the coarse, feverish crowd watering its passion with warm wine squirted from bulging skins; the bull's thundering fury; the graceful arrogance of the matador; the swirl of the fuchsia and yellow muleta; the flash and plunge of the sword.
This celebration of life and death and grace under pressure, as Hemingway described it, is watched on television in living rooms and bars all over Spain. The president of the corrida (usually a local public official) sits in box seat high above the arena with a group of advisors, and decides when to begin each phase of the event. The matador's artistry and daring determine whether the president, like an emperor decreeing mercy or death for a gladiator, will award him one or two ears.
The crowd plays a major role by wildly waving white handkerchiefs at the president to show their support for the matador. An extraordinary performance will bring two ears and a tail. Each morning during Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin in July, the bulls for the day's corrida are sent galloping down narrow, barricaded streets on a 2mile route to the Plaza de Taros. The animals receive a measure of revenge when they gore some of the hundreds of brave (or crazy) men and a few women who, dressed in the red and white colors of the festival, race before the bulls (in 1994 more than 50 people were gored or otherwise injured).
Castles of Andalusia
It takes a car, a sharp eye, a love of detours, and a wellstocked picnic hamper to find the romantic, weed-strewn ruins of castles that once guarded every hill and port in Moorish Al-Andalus. Perched on cragtops, these worn, but still stern, battlements formed a Maginot Line along the tense border between the Muslim and Christian worlds of long ago, where the names of towns bore the epithet de la frontera (on the border). But this martial past acquires a latter-day peaceful haze if the scant remains are contemplated with the benefit of a bottle of wine, a hunk of manchego cheese, some smoky slices of jamón serrano, and a handful of Spanish olives.
Because the road to the top can be nearly vertical, it's probably best to leave the car in the olive grove or by the cluster of whitewashed houses that invariably cower in the castle's shadow. Count on being alone at the top, except perhaps for a state employee who is likely to be as lonely as the ruins he guards and will be more than happy to point out the storerooms, the water drains, the narrow L-shaped passageways meant to thwart a battering ram, the direction from which the Christians finally came, the best angle for a snapshot, and the precise plot in the distant cemetery where his grandfather is buried.
Tapas and patios in Cordoba Spain
Andalusia - The glare of the southern sun and the heady odor of orange blossoms are everywhere in Cordoba, settling on the city, seeping from the cobblestones, sliding through the painted shutters, making everyone sleepy and sultry and hot. A tapas bar is the perfect refuge for sodden sightseers and lounging locals, who gather in the grudging breeze from a creaking electric fan, nursing chilled sangria and gazpacho.
Beneath the glass counter are countless accompaniments to a glass of beermarinated mushrooms, shrimp in garlic sauce, olives seasoned with thyme, fried squid, bits of sausage, roasted sweet peppers with olive oil, smoked ham, spicy meatballsall available in the mouthfulsize portions that make them tapas and not a meal. Throughout the day, the floor becomes littered with shrimp tails, toothpicks, and crumpled paper napkins (it's traditional for patrons to let them fall to the ground).
For those who can bring themselves to step out into the sticky Andalusian summer, occasional cool gusts of comfort come from the patios not quite hidden behind wrought-iron grilles or wooden doors left ajar just enough for one to peer in and breathe deeply. Geraniums, jasmine, and lemon trees lovingly arranged against patterned, tiled walls offer sunstroked visitors a fresh, perfumed caress. The lushest and most colorful patios win prizes in Cordoba's twoweek Fiesta de los Patios in May.
Flamenco in Seville
The impromptu stomp, strum, snap, clap, and growl gets going around 1 or 2 AM in the working class district of Triana. The patrons of the earthy bars along the Calle Betis bring their own guitars and tambourines, the dancing is unrefined and improvised, and the singing is soulful and throaty. Flamenco grew out of a mixture ofsevillanas, liturgical chants, the call of the Moorish muezzin, and plaintive Gypsy folk tunes, catalyzed by the Inquisition into a music of guttural sounds lamenting the fate of the heathen in brutally Catholic Spain.
Although the song and dance performances tablaos in the more gentrified Barrio de Santa Cruz (where foreigners pay pricey cover charges) are filled with high artistry, this, with its rough edges and drinking and picking of pockets, is the real thing.
Extremadura Spain
The name means beyond the Douro River, where the local specialties are blackbull steaks and cured hams made from snake-fed pigs. Ride here in the spring, before the heat has burned away the tapestry of flowers and turned the rich, red soil a cracked and sunbaked brown.
At a leisurely canter, you can't help but savor the cork woods and chestnut groves that motorists mostly miss on their way to the hilltop monasteries of Guadalupe and Yuste. In some parts, you and your mounts will be the only visitorsfew cars ever make it up the stomachchurning curves through the forests of Las Hurdes, the northernmost part of Extremadura. There is some poetic justice in the stares you will attract as you ride into a dusty shepherd town, for it was Extremaduran peasants-turned-conquistadores who rode the first horses off Spanish galleons and into places like Mexico and Peruand were taken for half-equine gods.
The Royal Trail Castile Leon
Like children romping in a playroom shin-deep in toys, the kings and queens of Spain scattered palaces, gardens, and summer retreats all over Castile. They all can be visited, but take it slow, because if you try to retrace the dainty steps of royalty in one whirlwind day, your tour will melt into a sumptuous haze of polished wood and tarnished mirrors and the very chair where Carlos the Somethingth sat. Start at the Prado, once the storehouse for the king's art collection, to see court life through Diego Velazquez's keen, cruel eye for the pomposity, frills, and formalities of the 17th century.
His portraits of the royal family and paintings such as Las Meninas (The Maids of Honor) seem like sociological studies of how the other half a handful lived. The itinerary then spirals out from King Juan Carlos's current throne room in Madrid's Palacio Real, swooping through extremes of opulence: the once suburban, still idyllic Parque del Buen Retiro, a couple of uphill blocks from the Prado; the tapestried walls of El Prado, 9 miles (14 km) from Madrid on the road to the royal monastery of El Escorial; the passionate austerity of El Escorial itself, in the mountains above Madrid; the weave of graveled walks and marble stairways at Aranjuez, on the La Mancha plain 30 miles (48 km) south of Madrid; and the bursting geyser fountain at La Granja de San Ildefonso, outside Segovia.
Paradors in Spain
No visit to the Iberian Peninsula is complete without a visit or an overnight stay in a Spanish parador. Imagine sleeping where kings and queens lay their heads, walking corridors and chambers where medieval Franciscan monks trod, and dining in elegant rooms where nobles and aristocrats sat down to countless formal meals over the centuries. Many Spaniards pride themselves on their rich sense of such traditions, and for more than a half-century their government has been building a network of impeccably restored and converted ancient landmark castles and monasteries into magnificent hotel accommodations, offering travelers a return to the past, complete with modernand often luxurious facilities.
Spain's first parador (an inn that offers food and shelter to travelers) was introduced west of Madrid in the Sierra de Gredos in 1928, when King Alfonso XIII opened a lodge to be used primarily as a base for hunting excursions. This concept of lowcost accommodation (often in areas that, though lovely and historic, were considered unpromising by many commercial hotel concerns) became so popular that it eventually expanded into the world's most successful program of transforming long-abandoned national treasures.
Many of the paradors are restored convents, palaces, manor houses, monasteries, and castles, filled with original decorations and antique furnishing. Other paradors are constructed of gleaming marble and boast the latest modern touchesincluding swimming pools (mostly outdoor), golf courses, and other sports facilities. All have good or even fine restaurants serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and featuring regional specialties and wines. All also carry the red, white, and rose wines bottled under the parador label by a quality Rioja winery.
Not all paradors are for everyone. Most of the rooms are doubles furnished with twin beds. Travelers who want a double bed should request a room with a cama de matrimonio, but be advised that normally there are only a few per parador. Some paradors are remote, located on the outskirts of town (requiring a car to get to most sightseeing stops). Travelers unable to climb stairs should inquire about elevators, since some paradors do not have easy access to all rooms and public areas. Rooms are equipped with TV sets and minibars, though not all have radios or air conditioning.
Although it is possible to travel through Spain from parador to parador by hire car, without reservations, this practice is not recommended. Ask the parador concierge to call ahead to determine availability and to make reservations. Rates are seasonal in the majority of the paradors, but some have one price structure yearround. Low season runs from November through March, midseason is from April through June, and high season is from July through October.
Car hire at the airport in Spain
If you are planning a trip to Spain, hire a car from the airport before you fly. Car hire at Malaga Airport, Madrid Airport, Alicante Airport, Murcia Airport, Valencia Airport and Barcelona Airport can be pre-booked which will save you time and money when you arrive at your destination.
The Parador del Golf Torremolinos
This parador (built in the 1970s), between the resort centers of Torremolinos and Malaga on the Costa del Sol, is a golfer's paradise. The 18-hole course was designed by English architect Tom Simpson, and it has a resident professional and a well-stocked pro shop. Besides 60 air conditioned rooms, it also boasts an ocean-front location, a circular swimming pool, tennis courts, a playground, a library, and gardens. Thanks to its nongolf facilities, this place is also popular with vacationing families.
The Parador de Almagro Castile La Mancha
Don Quixote loved the region of La Mancha, and so will any guest staying in this former 16th-century Franciscan convent. The air conditioned rooms are built around no fewer than 16 galleried inner patios, and the building abounds in decorative touches that recall its original function. It also features gardens, a wine cellar, a swimming pool, and a convention hall. The parador's popularity often exceeds its room capacity, so make reservations well in advance.
The restaurant is especially good, featuring imaginative presentations of the region's raw materials, fabulous desserts, and an excellent selection of reservas from the wine co-operative of nearby Daimiel. From May through October Almagro's main square becomes an open-air theater for classical work performed by topnotch national and international companies. The town is also famous for its lace.
Parador de Chinchon Castile la Mancha
This lovely village, a half hour's drive southeast of Madrid, is primarily known for its anisette liqueur, its Semana Santa (Easter week) recreation of Christ's crucifixion and res. urrection, and its summer amateur bullfights in the main square. Fourteen years ago, the town's 17th-century convent was transformed into a parador with 38 air conditioned rooms. The interior is adorned with murals, wall 'tapestries, and other ornate furnishings, and there's a wonderful glass.
walled circular hallway overlooking a beautiful court yard a perfect Spot for afternoon tea. The parador also boasts a chapel, a garden with winding paths and goldfish ponds, a swimming pool, and a convention hall.
Parador San Marcos Castile Leon
One of the most impressive hostelries in the country, this converted 16thcentury monastery hosted pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela for centuries. Travelers making the trek from Madrid to northern Spain today find this parador, with its 16th-century coffered ceiling, Plateresque exterior, and grand staircases, a perfect stop. The 256 air conditioned rooms make it the largest property in the parador network. Facilities include gardens, a nightclub, a hair salon, a childcare center, and a convention hall.
Parador Virrey de Toledo Castile la Mancha
According to legend, this massive medieval stone castle was built by Hercules' army, and later housed powerful Spanish and Moorish lords and kings. Today it looms over a valley of squat olive trees and small farms, about 72 miles (117 km) from Toledo.
A short walk from Oropesa's Plaza Mayor, this 48-room air conditioned parador is just 2 miles (3 km) away from the small town of Lagartera, famous for its lacework. Local women still can be seen sitting outside their homes and practicing this centuries-old craft. Facilities include gardens, a swimming pool, and meeting rooms.
Parador Zurburan Guadalupe Extremadura
Adventurous travelers should take a ride south from Oropesa to the town of Guadalupe in the province of Caceres to visit the Monasterio de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Monastery of Our Lady of Guadalupe) and the 40room parador now occupuying a former hospital adjacent to the monastery.
The unearthing in the late 13th century of a long-buried statue of the Virgin Mary was the reason for the construction of the monastery (the statue is now enshrined on the altar). Queen Isabella stayed here in fact, the building was used for the signing of contracts with explorers setting out for the Americas.
Today the parador offers magnificent sunset views of the town and monastery grounds nestled in the mountains. The air conditioned rooms look out over a central courtyard with Moorish-style gardens.
Parador Gil Blas Santillana del Mar Cantabria
This peaceful manor house and former home of the local Barredabracho family, helps visitors to envision what life was like centuries ago in Cantabria, a verdant region next door to the Basque Country, on Spain's north coast. The building is made of heavy stone walls and arches, and the 56 rooms feature woodbeamed ceilings, tile floors, rustic furnishings, and all the amenities.
Shopping in Spain
No mattcr where the pound stands relative to the euro, the temptation of shopping in Spain is irresistible. Colorful handpainted tiles and lovingly sewn handicrafts are eyecatching, easily luring the visitor into the country's many stores and openair marketplaces. Although there are no great bargains anymore, the quality is high and there's a wide array of leather goods, embroidered items, jewelry, fine porcelain, and fashion ranging from very basic handicraft sweaters and clothing to haute couture.
Spaniards are traditional strollers
They take to the streets as a pastime, particularly for browsing in the plethora of small specialty shops found in most cities. But the relaxed ambience and threehour lunchtime shop closings (except for major department stores) mean that visitors must make careful shopping plans. Standard shopping hours in Spain are weekdays from 9 AM to 1 or 2 PM, and following an afternoon break, again from 3 or 4 to 7 or 8 PM. Many shops also stay open on Saturdays from 9 AM to 1 PM. In smaller towns and cities, some shops may close one day a week in addition to Sunday (most typically on Monday).
Department stores are open Mondays through Saturdays from 10 AM to 8 or 9 PM. Many shops are closed in August, but department stores remain open year-round.
What to buy in Spain
The following is an item by item guide to what to buy in Spain. For listings of recommended shops in Spain's major metropolises.
Antiques Spain
Spain is an excellent hunting ground for antiques, with a wide range of dealers, auction houses, and non-commercial institutions that offer many items at bargain prices. For additional details, see Antiques and Auctions in this section.
Books and maps Spain
Even if you're not able to read Spain's treasured old books, it's still fun to browse. Many bookstores have dozens of shelves and stalls filled with books both old and new from around the world; some stores specialize in reducedrate and secondhand books, old editions, and rare titles. Much of Spanish literature is printed in both Spanish and English; for students of Spanish, there are few better ways to practice than by reading one of the classics in its original language.
Spanish ceramics and tiles
The diversity of Spain's regions is highly evident in the country's wide range of ceramics. The 700-year Moorish domination prevails in ceramic designs of the southern regions, where wall plates are enameled and trimmed in 24-karat gold. Later, when the English settled in the area around Cadiz, florals and busy scenic designs became the preferred style. One major ceramics center is the town of Talavera de la Reina, an hour south of Madrid and 45 minutes to an hour west of Toledo.
Designer Clothes Spain
Spain demonstrates a cosmopolitan flair for fashion, especially in the cities and towns close to the French border. Spanish designers have emerged as strong rivals to French and Italian creators. Their fashions are provocatively alluring and au courant, yet usually keep a classical line. Whatever the latest trend, visitors can rest assured that the fashions are up to date in Spanish cities.
Embroidery and lace Spain
In Spain, embroidery prices are determined by the intricacy of the stitch, not by the size of the item. Look carefully: Stitches made by a human hand cannot duplicate themselves over and over, and will therefore lack consistency; the more perfect the stitch, the more likely that an item was machine made.
Palma de Mallorca, on the Balearic island of Majorca, is known for its beautiful handmade embroidered items. Toledo and the nearby village of Lagartera are famous for their embroidery, lace, and needlework. In Lagartera, where the best La Mancha embroidery originates, every cottage has its own display of the freeform floral stitching, which decorates silk hangings, tablecloths, peasant bonnets, and full skirts.
Food and wine in Spain
Food shopping in Spain is a pleasure, probably because local customers are so demanding. Everything is fresh - sometimes so fresh that food stores hang unskinned rabbits in their windows. Unskinned rabbits and most non-canned meat products, however, cannot be legally brought back to the US (nor can soft cheeses or fruits and vegetables).
Some typical Spanish foodstuffs that can, though, include olive oil; turron (nougat candy), found all over Spain, especially around Christmas; mazapan (marzipan), found all over and a particular specialty in Toledo; azafron (saffron); mojo picon (hot sauce) from the Canary Islands; queso manchego, a hard goat cheese from Castile's La Mancha region but sold throughout Spain; and, of course, alcohol (Spain also is well known for its wines, especially Catalan champagne, Andalusian sherries and cognacs, and table wines from the northcentral Rioja region east of Burgos).
Spanish souvenirs
Spanish porcelain pieces, particularly the LJadro figurines, are collectors' items. The Lladro factory is located in Valencia, along the Mediterranean coastline. There is also a factory store that sees hard to distinguish seconds for one third to one half off retail. Spanish ceramic and porcelain tableware and giftware are well made and exported worldwide.
Spanish jewellery
There are excellent jewellery bargains in Spain. Look for the famous Majorca pearls, but watch out for imitations. There is only one authentic brand. Look for the official agency seal and for the unique l0-year International Certificate of Guarantee that comes with each piece. Sizes run from 4 to 14 millimeters in diameter, in hundreds of combinations. The pearls can be found throughout Spain, but the factory is in Manacor, on the island of Majorca. Cordoban silver filigree pieces are another favorite souvenir item. Pieces of bronze, gold, and silver in contemporary designs are also widely available. Fine gold jewelry, by law, is 18 karat.
Leather goods in Spain
Spanish leather items are subtle, soft, and a good value. Most leather on the Iberian Peninsula comes from sheep and lambs; cows produce a heavier quality skin that's made into jackets and coats. There are thousands of stores selling leather jackets, coats, gloves, pocketbooks, wallets, and other items. Generally speaking, shoppers can tell the quality of the leather by the feel. The softer it is, the better (and the more expensive).
Spanish vineyards
Spain has a longstanding enological tradition. Since the days of the Phoenicians and Greeks, sweet wine has been made in southern Spain. Under the Romans, wine production spread throughout the country and was eventually brought to the Americas along with the Spanish conquistadores.
Today, Spain is the world's third-largest wine producer. Until recently, Spain had more acreage devoted to vines than any other European country, but due to an excess of wine in the European Union, many Spanish vineyards have been uprooted or abandoned under an EU incentive plan. Much like Italy, production is fragmented and spread over a wide area, with 65% of it managed by 600 cooperatives comprising more than 100,000 members.
Running the full range from the aperitif and dessert wines of Andalusia to the brut cavas of the Penedes and a fine assortment of brandies, Spain's viniculture is a vast and varied adventure in good drinking. In addition to the famous Rioja reds, Spain produces a large assortment of other vino tinto (red wine), the best hailing from the temperate northern climes.
Navarre wine Spain
East of the Rioja region, Navarre makes full-bodied, fruity red wines from the same Rioja grape varieties; south of the Rioja along the Duero Valley, the Ribera del Duero appellation is gaining increasing cachet; and Catalonia's Penedes and Lleida areas produce some of the country's best red wines from native grapes, as well as from such acclimatized varieties as the cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir. Less sophisticated, but still eminently drinkable, are the reds of the central La Mancha plateau and the regions around Valencia and Alicante.
Though vino blanco (white wine) is produced throughout Spain, the vintages of Rioja and Catalonia have earned international renown. The Rioja whites, often made with the native viura grape, were formerly matured in oak but are now mostly cold-fermented in stainless steel to retain the crisp freshness of the fruit. La Mancha now produces a flowery white from the airen grape, and the fastrising Rueda appellation relies on verdejo or sauvignon blanc.
In Galicia, the whites have a light, natural effervesence, while Jerez produces a small amount of table wIne from the sherry grape. Admission fees are rare at Spanish wineries, and the bodegas (wine cellars) are accustomed to receiving visitors. Even those that have regular visiting hours tend to close for a couple of hours each day between noon and 3 PM. Many wineries sell a selection of their products on the premises; if not, local wines can usually be obtained at nearby shops.
(light reds or roses) and dry whites. There are dozens of vineyards in the Rioja, with the most important ones found in Logrono (the region's cap: tal), Haro, Cenicero, and Fuenmayor.
Bodegas Herceo
Established in 1872, this winery in Haro, some 30 miles (48 km) from Logrono, makes fresh, fruity whites and roses, fruity young reds with good color, and well rounded reserva reds with body and acidity. Visits must be arranged in advance.
Bodegas Campo Viejo
Visitors to the regional capital will enjoy wines from the eel. lars of this enormous bodega. The whites and roses are young and fruity; the reds, mature, aromatic, and light on the palate. Visits must be arranged in advance.
Bodegas Marques de Caceres
This Cenicero winery, located 14 miles (22 km) from Logrono, has made quite an international name for itself since opening in 1970. Its whites and roses are fresh and fruity, and its reds are full-bodied, smooth, and long. Visits must be arranged in advance.
Catalonia Wines
This region in the northeast corner of Spain borders the Mediterranean and produces a great variety of wines; the best known are those of the Emporda (reds and roses), Alella (dry or sweet whites), and the Penedes (whites and reds). But the Catalan pieces de resistance are the champagnelike sparkling wines known as cavas, produced in brut, see, and demisec varieties. Since 1872, when Spain produced its first bottle of cava, the country has become one of the largest producers of sparkling wines in the world. Although cava is made by the methode champenoise, or Champagne method, it is not a budget substitute for champagne, since the native parellada, macabeo, and xarello grapes give it its own distinctive regional characteristics. About 95% of Spanish cava comes from the Penedes, with the majority of producers grouped around the town of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia.
Penedes wines Spain
Table wines are also produced in Penedes, which spreads across the south of Barcelona province and the northeast of Tarragona province. The careful harvesting and elaboration of base wines to create sparkling wines have given rise to highquality whites that are fruity and fresh and have an alcoholic strength of between 9% and 13%. The roses are similar to the whites, and the area also produces light, smooth reds.
Bodegas Miguel Torres
Founded in 1870, this winery makes premium wines from cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay grapes, as well as fine popularly priced red, whites, and roses. A 30seat tour bus transports visitors around the winery and through the vineyards. Open daily.
Codorniu Spain
Since 1551, the Codorniu family has been producing still wines. In 1872, it produced Spain's first cava. Now a national monument welcoming more than 200,000 visitors a year, the winery produces more than 45 million bottles of cava annually in its underground wine cellar network extending 15 miles on five levels. These pale yellow sparkling wines have a flowery aroma and lovely flavor. The winery is closed Friday afternoons, weekends, and August.
Jerez wines
Among the world's most popular aperitif wines, genuine sherry comes only from the region of Jerez de la Frontera at the southern tip of Spain. Produced in great cathedral-like bodegas, these wines are continuously blended, the younger and older wines mixing in a series of casks that constitute the solera (blending). The result: virtually no vintage sherries and a quality that is absolutely consistent from year to year.
The predominant grape varieties are palomino fino, palomino jerez, Pedro Ximenez, and muscatel. The four standard styles of sherries are finos (pale, dry, and light, often with a hint of bitter almonds), manzanillas finas (very dry, with the tang of the sea air of their native Sanlucar de Barrameda), amontillados (amber sherries with more depth and body, and a nutty flavor), and olorosos (dark and fragrant, dry in their natural state, but often sweetened with Pedro Ximenez wine to achieve the rich, raisiny creams that elegantly top off a meal). In addition, pale cream is a new stylea light, medium sherry with a touch of sweetness.
Gonzalez Byass Spain
Established in 1835, this winery produces a fine range of finos olorosos, and sweet sherries. It also offers a unique ritual, featuring a mouse that climbs a miniature ladder to sip a daily dram of sherry from a glass Set out expressly for it. Visits are on weekdays only, and must be arranged in advance through the public relations department.
Pedro Domecq
A maker of wines since 1730, Domecq produces the full range of sherries in its vast facilities. All visits must be arranged through the public relations department; the winery is closed on weekends and during August.
There is a language similar to Portuguese spoken in the region of Galicia, a different form of Catalan in each of the regions of Catalonia including on each Balearic Island and the exotic (and impenetrable) tongue of the Basques, called euskera, that apparently isn't related to anything else on this planet.
The San Fermin Festival Pamplona
Iberia's range of flavors comes from its capacity for absorption. One of Spain's most notable painters, El Greco, was a Greek (as is the current queen, Sofia); the Bourbon dynasty was French; and an American popularized Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin (in recognition of which the city named a square for himPlaza Hemingway). The Americas contributed tomatoes, potatoes, chocolate, coffee, and the gold that decorated Toledan swords and made Madrid one of the most powerful cities in Europe. Africa gave Spain an architectural heritage and the microtonal wail of Spanish flamenco.
And Mother Nature bestowed on many parts of the country an often crushing heat that spawned such relaxing institutions as the afternoon siesta, the eveningpaseo, the strategically placed cafe, and the evening gathering around the motor scooter in a small town square.
Bullfighting Spain
Still, there are several experiences that capture the special spirit of this singular country, and provide a visitor with an insight into its irresistible personality. Bullfight in Pamplona, Navarre The corrida de toros, a Sunday ritual heralded by fanfare and pop, is an assault on all the senses: the ocher turf glaring in the late afternoon sun; the band's tinny blare; the gaudy, spangled costumes of the procession; the bandilleros' ballet; the coarse, feverish crowd watering its passion with warm wine squirted from bulging skins; the bull's thundering fury; the graceful arrogance of the matador; the swirl of the fuchsia and yellow muleta; the flash and plunge of the sword.
This celebration of life and death and grace under pressure, as Hemingway described it, is watched on television in living rooms and bars all over Spain. The president of the corrida (usually a local public official) sits in box seat high above the arena with a group of advisors, and decides when to begin each phase of the event. The matador's artistry and daring determine whether the president, like an emperor decreeing mercy or death for a gladiator, will award him one or two ears.
The crowd plays a major role by wildly waving white handkerchiefs at the president to show their support for the matador. An extraordinary performance will bring two ears and a tail. Each morning during Pamplona's Fiesta de San Fermin in July, the bulls for the day's corrida are sent galloping down narrow, barricaded streets on a 2mile route to the Plaza de Taros. The animals receive a measure of revenge when they gore some of the hundreds of brave (or crazy) men and a few women who, dressed in the red and white colors of the festival, race before the bulls (in 1994 more than 50 people were gored or otherwise injured).
Castles of Andalusia
It takes a car, a sharp eye, a love of detours, and a wellstocked picnic hamper to find the romantic, weed-strewn ruins of castles that once guarded every hill and port in Moorish Al-Andalus. Perched on cragtops, these worn, but still stern, battlements formed a Maginot Line along the tense border between the Muslim and Christian worlds of long ago, where the names of towns bore the epithet de la frontera (on the border). But this martial past acquires a latter-day peaceful haze if the scant remains are contemplated with the benefit of a bottle of wine, a hunk of manchego cheese, some smoky slices of jamón serrano, and a handful of Spanish olives.
Because the road to the top can be nearly vertical, it's probably best to leave the car in the olive grove or by the cluster of whitewashed houses that invariably cower in the castle's shadow. Count on being alone at the top, except perhaps for a state employee who is likely to be as lonely as the ruins he guards and will be more than happy to point out the storerooms, the water drains, the narrow L-shaped passageways meant to thwart a battering ram, the direction from which the Christians finally came, the best angle for a snapshot, and the precise plot in the distant cemetery where his grandfather is buried.
Tapas and patios in Cordoba Spain
Andalusia - The glare of the southern sun and the heady odor of orange blossoms are everywhere in Cordoba, settling on the city, seeping from the cobblestones, sliding through the painted shutters, making everyone sleepy and sultry and hot. A tapas bar is the perfect refuge for sodden sightseers and lounging locals, who gather in the grudging breeze from a creaking electric fan, nursing chilled sangria and gazpacho.
Beneath the glass counter are countless accompaniments to a glass of beermarinated mushrooms, shrimp in garlic sauce, olives seasoned with thyme, fried squid, bits of sausage, roasted sweet peppers with olive oil, smoked ham, spicy meatballsall available in the mouthfulsize portions that make them tapas and not a meal. Throughout the day, the floor becomes littered with shrimp tails, toothpicks, and crumpled paper napkins (it's traditional for patrons to let them fall to the ground).
For those who can bring themselves to step out into the sticky Andalusian summer, occasional cool gusts of comfort come from the patios not quite hidden behind wrought-iron grilles or wooden doors left ajar just enough for one to peer in and breathe deeply. Geraniums, jasmine, and lemon trees lovingly arranged against patterned, tiled walls offer sunstroked visitors a fresh, perfumed caress. The lushest and most colorful patios win prizes in Cordoba's twoweek Fiesta de los Patios in May.
Flamenco in Seville
The impromptu stomp, strum, snap, clap, and growl gets going around 1 or 2 AM in the working class district of Triana. The patrons of the earthy bars along the Calle Betis bring their own guitars and tambourines, the dancing is unrefined and improvised, and the singing is soulful and throaty. Flamenco grew out of a mixture ofsevillanas, liturgical chants, the call of the Moorish muezzin, and plaintive Gypsy folk tunes, catalyzed by the Inquisition into a music of guttural sounds lamenting the fate of the heathen in brutally Catholic Spain.
Although the song and dance performances tablaos in the more gentrified Barrio de Santa Cruz (where foreigners pay pricey cover charges) are filled with high artistry, this, with its rough edges and drinking and picking of pockets, is the real thing.
Extremadura Spain
The name means beyond the Douro River, where the local specialties are blackbull steaks and cured hams made from snake-fed pigs. Ride here in the spring, before the heat has burned away the tapestry of flowers and turned the rich, red soil a cracked and sunbaked brown.
At a leisurely canter, you can't help but savor the cork woods and chestnut groves that motorists mostly miss on their way to the hilltop monasteries of Guadalupe and Yuste. In some parts, you and your mounts will be the only visitorsfew cars ever make it up the stomachchurning curves through the forests of Las Hurdes, the northernmost part of Extremadura. There is some poetic justice in the stares you will attract as you ride into a dusty shepherd town, for it was Extremaduran peasants-turned-conquistadores who rode the first horses off Spanish galleons and into places like Mexico and Peruand were taken for half-equine gods.
The Royal Trail Castile Leon
Like children romping in a playroom shin-deep in toys, the kings and queens of Spain scattered palaces, gardens, and summer retreats all over Castile. They all can be visited, but take it slow, because if you try to retrace the dainty steps of royalty in one whirlwind day, your tour will melt into a sumptuous haze of polished wood and tarnished mirrors and the very chair where Carlos the Somethingth sat. Start at the Prado, once the storehouse for the king's art collection, to see court life through Diego Velazquez's keen, cruel eye for the pomposity, frills, and formalities of the 17th century.
His portraits of the royal family and paintings such as Las Meninas (The Maids of Honor) seem like sociological studies of how the other half a handful lived. The itinerary then spirals out from King Juan Carlos's current throne room in Madrid's Palacio Real, swooping through extremes of opulence: the once suburban, still idyllic Parque del Buen Retiro, a couple of uphill blocks from the Prado; the tapestried walls of El Prado, 9 miles (14 km) from Madrid on the road to the royal monastery of El Escorial; the passionate austerity of El Escorial itself, in the mountains above Madrid; the weave of graveled walks and marble stairways at Aranjuez, on the La Mancha plain 30 miles (48 km) south of Madrid; and the bursting geyser fountain at La Granja de San Ildefonso, outside Segovia.
Paradors in Spain
No visit to the Iberian Peninsula is complete without a visit or an overnight stay in a Spanish parador. Imagine sleeping where kings and queens lay their heads, walking corridors and chambers where medieval Franciscan monks trod, and dining in elegant rooms where nobles and aristocrats sat down to countless formal meals over the centuries. Many Spaniards pride themselves on their rich sense of such traditions, and for more than a half-century their government has been building a network of impeccably restored and converted ancient landmark castles and monasteries into magnificent hotel accommodations, offering travelers a return to the past, complete with modernand often luxurious facilities.
Spain's first parador (an inn that offers food and shelter to travelers) was introduced west of Madrid in the Sierra de Gredos in 1928, when King Alfonso XIII opened a lodge to be used primarily as a base for hunting excursions. This concept of lowcost accommodation (often in areas that, though lovely and historic, were considered unpromising by many commercial hotel concerns) became so popular that it eventually expanded into the world's most successful program of transforming long-abandoned national treasures.
Many of the paradors are restored convents, palaces, manor houses, monasteries, and castles, filled with original decorations and antique furnishing. Other paradors are constructed of gleaming marble and boast the latest modern touchesincluding swimming pools (mostly outdoor), golf courses, and other sports facilities. All have good or even fine restaurants serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and featuring regional specialties and wines. All also carry the red, white, and rose wines bottled under the parador label by a quality Rioja winery.
Not all paradors are for everyone. Most of the rooms are doubles furnished with twin beds. Travelers who want a double bed should request a room with a cama de matrimonio, but be advised that normally there are only a few per parador. Some paradors are remote, located on the outskirts of town (requiring a car to get to most sightseeing stops). Travelers unable to climb stairs should inquire about elevators, since some paradors do not have easy access to all rooms and public areas. Rooms are equipped with TV sets and minibars, though not all have radios or air conditioning.
Although it is possible to travel through Spain from parador to parador by hire car, without reservations, this practice is not recommended. Ask the parador concierge to call ahead to determine availability and to make reservations. Rates are seasonal in the majority of the paradors, but some have one price structure yearround. Low season runs from November through March, midseason is from April through June, and high season is from July through October.
Car hire at the airport in Spain
If you are planning a trip to Spain, hire a car from the airport before you fly. Car hire at Malaga Airport, Madrid Airport, Alicante Airport, Murcia Airport, Valencia Airport and Barcelona Airport can be pre-booked which will save you time and money when you arrive at your destination.
The Parador del Golf Torremolinos
This parador (built in the 1970s), between the resort centers of Torremolinos and Malaga on the Costa del Sol, is a golfer's paradise. The 18-hole course was designed by English architect Tom Simpson, and it has a resident professional and a well-stocked pro shop. Besides 60 air conditioned rooms, it also boasts an ocean-front location, a circular swimming pool, tennis courts, a playground, a library, and gardens. Thanks to its nongolf facilities, this place is also popular with vacationing families.
The Parador de Almagro Castile La Mancha
Don Quixote loved the region of La Mancha, and so will any guest staying in this former 16th-century Franciscan convent. The air conditioned rooms are built around no fewer than 16 galleried inner patios, and the building abounds in decorative touches that recall its original function. It also features gardens, a wine cellar, a swimming pool, and a convention hall. The parador's popularity often exceeds its room capacity, so make reservations well in advance.
The restaurant is especially good, featuring imaginative presentations of the region's raw materials, fabulous desserts, and an excellent selection of reservas from the wine co-operative of nearby Daimiel. From May through October Almagro's main square becomes an open-air theater for classical work performed by topnotch national and international companies. The town is also famous for its lace.
Parador de Chinchon Castile la Mancha
This lovely village, a half hour's drive southeast of Madrid, is primarily known for its anisette liqueur, its Semana Santa (Easter week) recreation of Christ's crucifixion and res. urrection, and its summer amateur bullfights in the main square. Fourteen years ago, the town's 17th-century convent was transformed into a parador with 38 air conditioned rooms. The interior is adorned with murals, wall 'tapestries, and other ornate furnishings, and there's a wonderful glass.
walled circular hallway overlooking a beautiful court yard a perfect Spot for afternoon tea. The parador also boasts a chapel, a garden with winding paths and goldfish ponds, a swimming pool, and a convention hall.
Parador San Marcos Castile Leon
One of the most impressive hostelries in the country, this converted 16thcentury monastery hosted pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela for centuries. Travelers making the trek from Madrid to northern Spain today find this parador, with its 16th-century coffered ceiling, Plateresque exterior, and grand staircases, a perfect stop. The 256 air conditioned rooms make it the largest property in the parador network. Facilities include gardens, a nightclub, a hair salon, a childcare center, and a convention hall.
Parador Virrey de Toledo Castile la Mancha
According to legend, this massive medieval stone castle was built by Hercules' army, and later housed powerful Spanish and Moorish lords and kings. Today it looms over a valley of squat olive trees and small farms, about 72 miles (117 km) from Toledo.
A short walk from Oropesa's Plaza Mayor, this 48-room air conditioned parador is just 2 miles (3 km) away from the small town of Lagartera, famous for its lacework. Local women still can be seen sitting outside their homes and practicing this centuries-old craft. Facilities include gardens, a swimming pool, and meeting rooms.
Parador Zurburan Guadalupe Extremadura
Adventurous travelers should take a ride south from Oropesa to the town of Guadalupe in the province of Caceres to visit the Monasterio de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (Monastery of Our Lady of Guadalupe) and the 40room parador now occupuying a former hospital adjacent to the monastery.
The unearthing in the late 13th century of a long-buried statue of the Virgin Mary was the reason for the construction of the monastery (the statue is now enshrined on the altar). Queen Isabella stayed here in fact, the building was used for the signing of contracts with explorers setting out for the Americas.
Today the parador offers magnificent sunset views of the town and monastery grounds nestled in the mountains. The air conditioned rooms look out over a central courtyard with Moorish-style gardens.
Parador Gil Blas Santillana del Mar Cantabria
This peaceful manor house and former home of the local Barredabracho family, helps visitors to envision what life was like centuries ago in Cantabria, a verdant region next door to the Basque Country, on Spain's north coast. The building is made of heavy stone walls and arches, and the 56 rooms feature woodbeamed ceilings, tile floors, rustic furnishings, and all the amenities.
Shopping in Spain
No mattcr where the pound stands relative to the euro, the temptation of shopping in Spain is irresistible. Colorful handpainted tiles and lovingly sewn handicrafts are eyecatching, easily luring the visitor into the country's many stores and openair marketplaces. Although there are no great bargains anymore, the quality is high and there's a wide array of leather goods, embroidered items, jewelry, fine porcelain, and fashion ranging from very basic handicraft sweaters and clothing to haute couture.
Spaniards are traditional strollers
They take to the streets as a pastime, particularly for browsing in the plethora of small specialty shops found in most cities. But the relaxed ambience and threehour lunchtime shop closings (except for major department stores) mean that visitors must make careful shopping plans. Standard shopping hours in Spain are weekdays from 9 AM to 1 or 2 PM, and following an afternoon break, again from 3 or 4 to 7 or 8 PM. Many shops also stay open on Saturdays from 9 AM to 1 PM. In smaller towns and cities, some shops may close one day a week in addition to Sunday (most typically on Monday).
Department stores are open Mondays through Saturdays from 10 AM to 8 or 9 PM. Many shops are closed in August, but department stores remain open year-round.
What to buy in Spain
The following is an item by item guide to what to buy in Spain. For listings of recommended shops in Spain's major metropolises.
Antiques Spain
Spain is an excellent hunting ground for antiques, with a wide range of dealers, auction houses, and non-commercial institutions that offer many items at bargain prices. For additional details, see Antiques and Auctions in this section.
Books and maps Spain
Even if you're not able to read Spain's treasured old books, it's still fun to browse. Many bookstores have dozens of shelves and stalls filled with books both old and new from around the world; some stores specialize in reducedrate and secondhand books, old editions, and rare titles. Much of Spanish literature is printed in both Spanish and English; for students of Spanish, there are few better ways to practice than by reading one of the classics in its original language.
Spanish ceramics and tiles
The diversity of Spain's regions is highly evident in the country's wide range of ceramics. The 700-year Moorish domination prevails in ceramic designs of the southern regions, where wall plates are enameled and trimmed in 24-karat gold. Later, when the English settled in the area around Cadiz, florals and busy scenic designs became the preferred style. One major ceramics center is the town of Talavera de la Reina, an hour south of Madrid and 45 minutes to an hour west of Toledo.
Designer Clothes Spain
Spain demonstrates a cosmopolitan flair for fashion, especially in the cities and towns close to the French border. Spanish designers have emerged as strong rivals to French and Italian creators. Their fashions are provocatively alluring and au courant, yet usually keep a classical line. Whatever the latest trend, visitors can rest assured that the fashions are up to date in Spanish cities.
Embroidery and lace Spain
In Spain, embroidery prices are determined by the intricacy of the stitch, not by the size of the item. Look carefully: Stitches made by a human hand cannot duplicate themselves over and over, and will therefore lack consistency; the more perfect the stitch, the more likely that an item was machine made.
Palma de Mallorca, on the Balearic island of Majorca, is known for its beautiful handmade embroidered items. Toledo and the nearby village of Lagartera are famous for their embroidery, lace, and needlework. In Lagartera, where the best La Mancha embroidery originates, every cottage has its own display of the freeform floral stitching, which decorates silk hangings, tablecloths, peasant bonnets, and full skirts.
Food and wine in Spain
Food shopping in Spain is a pleasure, probably because local customers are so demanding. Everything is fresh - sometimes so fresh that food stores hang unskinned rabbits in their windows. Unskinned rabbits and most non-canned meat products, however, cannot be legally brought back to the US (nor can soft cheeses or fruits and vegetables).
Some typical Spanish foodstuffs that can, though, include olive oil; turron (nougat candy), found all over Spain, especially around Christmas; mazapan (marzipan), found all over and a particular specialty in Toledo; azafron (saffron); mojo picon (hot sauce) from the Canary Islands; queso manchego, a hard goat cheese from Castile's La Mancha region but sold throughout Spain; and, of course, alcohol (Spain also is well known for its wines, especially Catalan champagne, Andalusian sherries and cognacs, and table wines from the northcentral Rioja region east of Burgos).
Spanish souvenirs
Spanish porcelain pieces, particularly the LJadro figurines, are collectors' items. The Lladro factory is located in Valencia, along the Mediterranean coastline. There is also a factory store that sees hard to distinguish seconds for one third to one half off retail. Spanish ceramic and porcelain tableware and giftware are well made and exported worldwide.
Spanish jewellery
There are excellent jewellery bargains in Spain. Look for the famous Majorca pearls, but watch out for imitations. There is only one authentic brand. Look for the official agency seal and for the unique l0-year International Certificate of Guarantee that comes with each piece. Sizes run from 4 to 14 millimeters in diameter, in hundreds of combinations. The pearls can be found throughout Spain, but the factory is in Manacor, on the island of Majorca. Cordoban silver filigree pieces are another favorite souvenir item. Pieces of bronze, gold, and silver in contemporary designs are also widely available. Fine gold jewelry, by law, is 18 karat.
Leather goods in Spain
Spanish leather items are subtle, soft, and a good value. Most leather on the Iberian Peninsula comes from sheep and lambs; cows produce a heavier quality skin that's made into jackets and coats. There are thousands of stores selling leather jackets, coats, gloves, pocketbooks, wallets, and other items. Generally speaking, shoppers can tell the quality of the leather by the feel. The softer it is, the better (and the more expensive).
Spanish vineyards
Spain has a longstanding enological tradition. Since the days of the Phoenicians and Greeks, sweet wine has been made in southern Spain. Under the Romans, wine production spread throughout the country and was eventually brought to the Americas along with the Spanish conquistadores.
Today, Spain is the world's third-largest wine producer. Until recently, Spain had more acreage devoted to vines than any other European country, but due to an excess of wine in the European Union, many Spanish vineyards have been uprooted or abandoned under an EU incentive plan. Much like Italy, production is fragmented and spread over a wide area, with 65% of it managed by 600 cooperatives comprising more than 100,000 members.
Running the full range from the aperitif and dessert wines of Andalusia to the brut cavas of the Penedes and a fine assortment of brandies, Spain's viniculture is a vast and varied adventure in good drinking. In addition to the famous Rioja reds, Spain produces a large assortment of other vino tinto (red wine), the best hailing from the temperate northern climes.
Navarre wine Spain
East of the Rioja region, Navarre makes full-bodied, fruity red wines from the same Rioja grape varieties; south of the Rioja along the Duero Valley, the Ribera del Duero appellation is gaining increasing cachet; and Catalonia's Penedes and Lleida areas produce some of the country's best red wines from native grapes, as well as from such acclimatized varieties as the cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and pinot noir. Less sophisticated, but still eminently drinkable, are the reds of the central La Mancha plateau and the regions around Valencia and Alicante.
Though vino blanco (white wine) is produced throughout Spain, the vintages of Rioja and Catalonia have earned international renown. The Rioja whites, often made with the native viura grape, were formerly matured in oak but are now mostly cold-fermented in stainless steel to retain the crisp freshness of the fruit. La Mancha now produces a flowery white from the airen grape, and the fastrising Rueda appellation relies on verdejo or sauvignon blanc.
In Galicia, the whites have a light, natural effervesence, while Jerez produces a small amount of table wIne from the sherry grape. Admission fees are rare at Spanish wineries, and the bodegas (wine cellars) are accustomed to receiving visitors. Even those that have regular visiting hours tend to close for a couple of hours each day between noon and 3 PM. Many wineries sell a selection of their products on the premises; if not, local wines can usually be obtained at nearby shops.
(light reds or roses) and dry whites. There are dozens of vineyards in the Rioja, with the most important ones found in Logrono (the region's cap: tal), Haro, Cenicero, and Fuenmayor.
Bodegas Herceo
Established in 1872, this winery in Haro, some 30 miles (48 km) from Logrono, makes fresh, fruity whites and roses, fruity young reds with good color, and well rounded reserva reds with body and acidity. Visits must be arranged in advance.
Bodegas Campo Viejo
Visitors to the regional capital will enjoy wines from the eel. lars of this enormous bodega. The whites and roses are young and fruity; the reds, mature, aromatic, and light on the palate. Visits must be arranged in advance.
Bodegas Marques de Caceres
This Cenicero winery, located 14 miles (22 km) from Logrono, has made quite an international name for itself since opening in 1970. Its whites and roses are fresh and fruity, and its reds are full-bodied, smooth, and long. Visits must be arranged in advance.
Catalonia Wines
This region in the northeast corner of Spain borders the Mediterranean and produces a great variety of wines; the best known are those of the Emporda (reds and roses), Alella (dry or sweet whites), and the Penedes (whites and reds). But the Catalan pieces de resistance are the champagnelike sparkling wines known as cavas, produced in brut, see, and demisec varieties. Since 1872, when Spain produced its first bottle of cava, the country has become one of the largest producers of sparkling wines in the world. Although cava is made by the methode champenoise, or Champagne method, it is not a budget substitute for champagne, since the native parellada, macabeo, and xarello grapes give it its own distinctive regional characteristics. About 95% of Spanish cava comes from the Penedes, with the majority of producers grouped around the town of Sant Sadurni d'Anoia.
Penedes wines Spain
Table wines are also produced in Penedes, which spreads across the south of Barcelona province and the northeast of Tarragona province. The careful harvesting and elaboration of base wines to create sparkling wines have given rise to highquality whites that are fruity and fresh and have an alcoholic strength of between 9% and 13%. The roses are similar to the whites, and the area also produces light, smooth reds.
Bodegas Miguel Torres
Founded in 1870, this winery makes premium wines from cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay grapes, as well as fine popularly priced red, whites, and roses. A 30seat tour bus transports visitors around the winery and through the vineyards. Open daily.
Codorniu Spain
Since 1551, the Codorniu family has been producing still wines. In 1872, it produced Spain's first cava. Now a national monument welcoming more than 200,000 visitors a year, the winery produces more than 45 million bottles of cava annually in its underground wine cellar network extending 15 miles on five levels. These pale yellow sparkling wines have a flowery aroma and lovely flavor. The winery is closed Friday afternoons, weekends, and August.
Jerez wines
Among the world's most popular aperitif wines, genuine sherry comes only from the region of Jerez de la Frontera at the southern tip of Spain. Produced in great cathedral-like bodegas, these wines are continuously blended, the younger and older wines mixing in a series of casks that constitute the solera (blending). The result: virtually no vintage sherries and a quality that is absolutely consistent from year to year.
The predominant grape varieties are palomino fino, palomino jerez, Pedro Ximenez, and muscatel. The four standard styles of sherries are finos (pale, dry, and light, often with a hint of bitter almonds), manzanillas finas (very dry, with the tang of the sea air of their native Sanlucar de Barrameda), amontillados (amber sherries with more depth and body, and a nutty flavor), and olorosos (dark and fragrant, dry in their natural state, but often sweetened with Pedro Ximenez wine to achieve the rich, raisiny creams that elegantly top off a meal). In addition, pale cream is a new stylea light, medium sherry with a touch of sweetness.
Gonzalez Byass Spain
Established in 1835, this winery produces a fine range of finos olorosos, and sweet sherries. It also offers a unique ritual, featuring a mouse that climbs a miniature ladder to sip a daily dram of sherry from a glass Set out expressly for it. Visits are on weekdays only, and must be arranged in advance through the public relations department.
Pedro Domecq
A maker of wines since 1730, Domecq produces the full range of sherries in its vast facilities. All visits must be arranged through the public relations department; the winery is closed on weekends and during August.
Labels: Bullfighting Spain, Flamenco in Seville, What to buy in Spain
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