Burgos and its history

Burgos lies between the Spanish meseta (plateau) and the foothills of the Cantabrian and Iberian cordilleras, about 150 miles (240 km) due north of Madrid and 95 miles (152 km) due south of the Atlantic coast at Santander. An important crossroads for centuries, it thrives in a setting that combines tableland and mountain, wheatfields and pine woods in a way particularly characteristic of inland Spain. Though relatively young (dating from the 9th century), Burgos nevertheless boasts a rich and colorful history as an outpost for troops fighting on the Moorish frontier, and later as the capital of the kingdom of Castile.

El Cid of Burgos

The city is probably best known for its most famous native son, Spain's national hero Rodrigo Dfaz de Vivar, more commonly known as El Cid Campeador. This much-romanticized figure was born in the tiny village of Vivar, just north of Burgos, and became a legend of the Reconquista (the Christian reconquest of Spain from the Muslims). Following his victory over the Moors in 1081, El Cid was expelled from Castile by Alfonso VI, who was jealous of the soldier's popularity and distrusted him, even though the hero was married to Dona Jimena, the king's cousin.

As an exiled soldier of fortune, El Cid joined the forces of the Moorish king of Zaragoza and fought against the same Christian forces he had once led. His sympathies soon switched again, and in 1094 he led 7,000 Christian knights to a stunning victory over the Moors at Valencia, where, five years later, he met his death. His brave widow held Valencia until 1102, when she burned the city before it was overrun by the Moors, then returned to Castile with her husband's remains.

El Cid was eventually immortalized in the great, anonymous 12th-century Castilian epic poem El cantar del mio Cid, a tender but mostly fictional account of the mercenary's exploits. Today, he and Dona Jimena are buried side by side in the Catedral de Burgos after centuries of peaceful rest in the Monasterio de San Pedro de Cardefia several miles east of town. A simple tombstone just outside the front entrance to the monastery pays tribute to El Cid's loyal horse, Babieca, reputedly buried here. The hero's presence still pervades the city, as the striking statue of him in the Plaza de Miguel Primo de Rivera shows.

Santiago de Compostela Spain

While EI Cid was making the name of Burgos known to the Moors, the city also was gaining renown among medieval Christians as a major stopping point for pilgrims on their way to the shrine of St. James in Santiago de Compostela. This great mass movement had begun in earnest in the 10th century, and as it grew, so did Burgos. The cathedral, begun and completed for the most part in the 13th century, became the city's focal point and over the years has come to be recognized as one of the world's most important landmarks of Gothic architecture and sculpture.

It's a living testament to the wealth of Burgos in the 13th century, when a powerful guild of sheep farmers, known as the Mesta, generated an unprecedented amount of commerce by selling their merino wool both locally and abroad. Burgos was a center of the wool trade, a fact recalled by its name, which derives from the burghers, or middle class merchants, who gave rise to the towns of the Middle Ages.

Monuments in Burgos

The 13th and 14th centuries were periods of extraordinary splendor, during which the construction of churches, monasteries, and homes grew under the influence of bishops and abbots and with the patronage of kings and noblemen. During the 15th and 16th centuries, the city achieved further spectacular development, thanks in part to its economic wealth, which attracted corps of painters, sculptors, and architects.

Burgos and Franco

After the 16th century, Burgos began to decline. Only in this century did it return to the fore, this time infamously, as the capital of the regime of Generalissimo Francisco Franco during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939). In 1936, the Nationalist movement was spawned in Burgos, where it was said that even the stones are Nationalist (even today, the city still has streets and plazas named after Franco and others of his ilk). Yet despite adverse historical circumstances and its share of warfare, Burgos has retained a wealth of artistic relics that few Spanish cities or provinces can surpass.

Things to do in Burgos Spain

The best way to get a panoramic view of Burgos is to walk or drive up to the remains of the old castle, just above the cathedral. To reach it on foot, begin in Plaza de Santa Marfa, in front of the cathedral, take the steps up to the Iglesia de San Nicolas, and turn left onto Calle Fernan Gonzalez; at the triumphal arch, take the stairs leading upward to the top. The castle is nothing but a ruin, having been blown up by departing Napoleonic troops in the early 19th century, but it's possible to climb carefully to the top of the walls (although it's not encouraged) and behold Burgos, majestically spread out below.

Places to visit in Burgos

The major sights are clustered in the Casco Viejo (Old Town), a relatively small area on one side of the Rio Arlanzon (Arlanzon River). Its central features are the arcaded Plaza Mayor (Plaza de Jose Antonio on some maps), just west of which, at the foot of the castle hill, is the impressive Gothic cathedral. South of the cathedral is the Plaza del Rey San Fernando; from it, the A reo de Santa Maria, a massive gate with semicircular towers, opens onto the beginning of the Paseo del Espolon, one of the most beautiful and pleasant riverside promenades in Spain. Just in front of the gate, the Arlanzon is crossed by the Puente de Santa Maria (St. Mary Bridge).

The main sights of Burgos are within easy walking distance of this core, although most people will want to take public transportation to the Monasterio de las Huelgas and the Cartuja de Miraflores (Miraflores Convent).

Burgos Cathedral

The cathedral in Burgos is the third-largest in Spain, following those of Seville and Toledo, but it was the country's first great Gothic cathedral. Begun in 1221, the structure was largely designed by Master Enrique, who also built the cathedral of Leon.

The first mass was said nine years later, although the edifice was not finished for several more centuries. The main body of the church, mostly completed in the 13th century, is in a simpler Gothic style than that represented by such 15th-century additions as the two west front spires or the Capilla del Condestable (Constable's Chapel). Both of these latter structures are wondrously Flamboyant Gothic. Yet while the cathedral's plan was originally based on French models, and both French and German architects collaborated in its construction, its design and decoration are in the finest Spanish tradition.

Before going inside, walk down to the Plaza del Rey San Fernando, from which a flight of stairs leads up to what is considered the most beautiful of the church's four entrances, the Puerta del Sarmental, a door in French Gothic style. Inside, massive columns rising to the vaulted dome at the crossing of the transept appear to stretch to the heavens, and the domecolorless, opaque glass in an eight-pointed star shape amid ornate Plateresque stone carvingis as jewellike as a giant rhinestone pin.

Light shining through the windows, the screens, and the skylight and glinting off the grillwork all make the building appear as if made mostly of air.

In the floor under the dome is the tomb of EI Cid and his wife, Dona Jimena, sandwiched between the 16th-century Renaissance Capilla Mayor (Main Chapel) and altarpiece and the 16th-century walnut choir stalls.

(The Infante Don Juan, one of Alfonso X's sons, and other members of the royal family are in tombs at the foot of the altar.) Both the choir and the high altar are surrounded by a giant grille. The gilded staircase on the north side of the cathedral, a 16th-century Renaissance design by Diego de Siloe, is one of the church's treasures.

The cathedral has 19 chapels, not all of which are on view at any given time. Foremost is the octagonal Capilla del Condestable, behind the Capilla Mayor. In the small room just off the chapel is a painting of Mary Magdalene, attributed to Leonardo da Vinci (it's behind closed doors in a cupboard-ask the attendant to open it).

Also noteworthy are the beautifully carved cloister doors; they lead into the 13th-century cloister, built on two levels, and the adjoining chapel and chapter house, which function as the cathedral museum. Here the treasures include the 16th-century Christ at the Column sculpture by Diego de SHoe, considered a masterpiece' of Spanish Expressionism, and the silver carriage that transports the gold monstrance in the city's Corpus Christi procession in early June.

One of the cathedral's lighter facets is the famous 16th-century Papamoscas (Flycatcher), a clock with automated figures high up above the central aisle. On the hour, a figure to the right rings a bell causing the Flycatcher's mouth to open in a grimace (catching flies in the summer, hence the name). The cathedral is open daily. Admission charge to the cloister. Plaza Santa Marfa.

Iglesia de San Nicolas Burgos

An unusual, mostly 15th-century Gothic church just up the stairs from the Plaza de Santa Marfa, it has a magnificent altarpiece by Francisco de Colonia, dating from 1505. Carved in stone are some 48 scenes from the Bible and from the life of St. Nicholas, incorporating hundreds of figures. On either side of the altar and on the sides of the church are haunting Gothic tombs. The church also contains some interesting 16th-century Flemish paintings. Don't spare the 100 pesetas for illumination´-it's well worth it. Open daily. Calle Fermin Gonzalez.

Arco de Santa Maria Burgos Spain

When Burgos was a walled city, this was its main gateway, fed by the main bridge over the Rfo Arlanzon. It dates from the 14th century (although there was an earlier, 11th-century gate here), and was remodeled in the 16th century. Pictured in its niches are some famous figures from local history: Count Diego Rodrfguez Porcelos, the city's 9th-century founder, flanked by judges, on the lower level; Count Fernan Gonzalez, the 10th-century founder of the County of Castile, flanked by the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and EI Cid, on the upper level. Plaza del Rey San Fernando.

Archaeological Museum Burgos

Set up in the Casa de Miranda, a 16th-century mansion that features an elegant two-storey courtyard with a fountain in the center, the collection embraces finds from prehistoric times through the present day. Roman artifacts include ceramics, weapons, glass bowls, and household items. There also is an interesting presentation on the region's Roman road system and a small display of Visigothic items. The medieval section houses the Gothic tomb of Juan de Padilla, the Franciscan missionary. Closed Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Admission charge. 13 Calle Miranda.

The Marceliano Museum Burgos

The museum occupies the former Augustinian Monasterio de San Juan, now fully restored and converted into a palace of the arts. The upstairs houses 165 works by Santa Marfa, a local 19th and 20th-century Impressionist painter, including portraits and colorful landscapes of the surrounding countryside. Closed Mondays. Admission charge. Plaza de San Juan.

Casa del Cordon Burgos

A fine example of secular, rather than ecclesiastic, Gothic architecture of the 15th century, the Casa del Cordon is the building where, in April 1497, the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella, met Christopher Columbus after his return from his second trip to the Americas. Beautifully restored, it is open to the public.

Estatua del Cid Burgos

This monumental statue of the Burgalese hero astride Babieca, his faithful steed, is so centrally located that visitors come upon it again and again as they explore the city. A contemporary work (1954) in bronze, it bristles with energy. Plaza de Miguel Primo de Rivera.

The Monastery of Las Huelgas

What originally was a royal summer palace was converted into a Cistercian convent for nuns of aristocratic and royal lineage by Alfonso VIII and his English wife, Eleanor, in 1187. This eventually became one of the most important and powerful convents in Europe. The buildings and artwork reflect a wealth of changing architectural styles and influences from Romanesque and Mudejar to Renaissance and Plateresque. The church has a rather simple facade with a square tower.

Inside, note the unique 16th-century revolving pulpit that allowed the priest to address both sides of the church, which is divided by a wall that is also a carved Renaissance-style altarpiece. Beyond side aisles containing the tombs of Alfonso VIII, Eleanor, and other royal personages are cloisters; rooms with carved, Moorish-style stone ceilings; a small room with a wonderful artesonado (coffered wood ceiling); and, at the end, the Museo de Telas Medievales (Museum of Medieval Textiles). On display here, among other things, are garments found in the only one of the church's tombs left unsacked over the centuries, that of Don Fernando de la Cerda (122575), son of Alfonso X.

Miraflores Carthusian Convent Burgos

In the mid-15th century, King Juan II gave the land here to the Carthusians to build a monastery, which he chose as the final resting place for himself and his second wife, Isabella of Portugal (they were the parents of Queen Isabella I of Castile). He died in 1454 and work on the church was carried out largely attributed to Leonardo da Vinci (it's behind closed doors in a cupboard - ask the attendant to open it).

Also noteworthy are the beautifully carved cloister doors; they lead into the 13th-century cloister, built on two levels, and the adjoining chapel and chapter house, which function as the cathedral museum.

Here the treasures include the 16th-century Christ at the Column sculpture by Diego de Shoe, considered a masterpiece of Spanish Expressionism, and the silver carriage that transports the gold monstrance in the city's Corpus Christi procession in early June. One of the cathedral's lighter facets is the famous 16th century Papamoscas (Flycatcher), a clock with automated figures high up above the central aisle. On the hour, a figure to the right rings a bell causing the Flycatcher's mouth to open in a grimace (catching flies in the summer, hence the name). The cathedral is open daily. Admission charge to the cloister. Plaza Santa Marfa.

Burgos Airport car hire in Spain

Whether you are visiting Burgos, Barcelona, Malaga, Seville, Madrid or the Costa Blanca, you will find plenty of things to see and do in Spain, and the best way to get around is to hire a car from the airport. Car hire in Malaga, Burgos, Barcelona and Madrid is much cheaper when pre-booked before you travel, and you can pick up a range of car rentals in Spain at low prices, when you pre-book at the airport.

Briviesca near Burgos

This medieval town, just 25 miles (40 km) northeast of Burgos on the main highway (N1), is well worth a visit.In the Plaza Santa Marfa, the 14th-century church Colegiata de Santa Maria, with its exquisite Renaissance fa«ade, is a fine example of Christian Castilian architecture. The town is also the site of the 15th-century Iglesia de San Martin (St. Martin's Church), also centrally located on the Calle Canton Salazar, and the 16thcentury Iglesia de Santa Clara on Calle Duque Frias; both draw large crowds of religious art enthusiasts.

Santo Domingo de Silos near Burgos

One of Spain's great monasteries (and, more recently, a growing musical tourist attraction of sorts), this Benedictine abbey 41 miles (69 km) southeast of Burgos was built in 919 and features a wonderful two-storey Romanesque cloister from the 11th century. Of particular interest is the painted Mudejar vault depicting everyday life in medieval Castile and the remarkable bas reliefs at each corner of the cloister showing scenes from the life of Christ.

The museum has a few interesting pieces, including some Visigothic Christian prayer books and the tympanum of a Romanesque church that used to be on the site. There is also a reconstructed 18th-century pharmacy. But the monastery is most famous abroad for its choir of monks.